Salt, Spruce, and Sea Stacks: A 3-Day Backpacking Loop on the Ozette Coast
Three days of tide-timed trekking, old-growth forest, and sea-stack sunsets on Washington’s wildest beach.
The first step is sand, a soft give that eats the heel of your boot and then pushes you forward. A spruce wind combs the beach into a single direction; salt spray tastes like the edge of the map. You leave Ozette Lake behind on a cedar-boarded trail that sinks into old-growth — trunks the width of pickup beds, moss hanging like tasseled coats. For three days the coast alternates between slow forest hush and sudden, cinematic exposure: sea stacks standing like broken columns offshore, tide pools jeweled with anemones, and a horizon where migrating gray whales sometimes blow a smoky salute.
Trail Wisdom
Plan by the Tide
Low-tide windows govern safe passage around headlands—carry printed tide tables and learn to read them.
Protect Your Pack from Spray
Use a waterproof pack cover or dry bags; damp gear makes nights colder and heavier.
Footwear for Sand and Rock
Bring lightweight trail runners for sandy beach miles and sturdier shoes for rocky points and boulder scrambling.
Respect Tidepools
Avoid stepping in pools or overturning rocks—look but don’t touch to preserve delicate life.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Tidepool alcoves along Cape Alava at extreme low tide
- •Quiet headland overlooks where seals haul out mid-morning
Wildlife
Sea otter, Harbor seal
Conservation Note
This coastline hosts fragile intertidal ecosystems—practice Leave No Trace, stay off dune vegetation, and avoid disturbing tidepool life.
The Ozette area has longstanding Indigenous presence; archaeological excavations at the Ozette Village revealed well-preserved wooden artifacts and plank houses that illuminate coastal Makah lifeways.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Early-season solitude, Wildflower meadows, Bird migration
Challenges: Unreliable weather, Higher runoff in streams, Cooler nights
Spring brings fewer visitors and blooming coastal meadows, but expect variable weather and cool, damp nights—pack warm layers.
summer
Best for: Stable weather windows, Peak wildlife sightings, Best photography light
Challenges: Crowded weekends, Higher demand for permits, Possible smoke from regional fires
Summer is the optimal season for this trip: longer days and more predictable tides, but booking early is essential.
fall
Best for: Storm-watching, Fewer crowds, Late-season birding
Challenges: Shorter daylight, Higher surf and rain, Trail muddiness
Autumn offers dramatic light and surf but shorter days and stormier conditions—check forecasts and tide tables closely.
winter
Best for: Solitude, Powerful wave action, Dramatic skies
Challenges: Dangerous surf and high tides, Limited services, Frequent storms
Winter is rugged and not recommended for casual backpackers—the coastline becomes more hazardous and access limited.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Internal-frame Backpack (40–55L)Essential
Enough capacity for a three-day kit while staying comfortable on sandy terrain.
Waterproof Rain Jacket & Rain PantsEssential
Maritime weather is changeable — full rain protection keeps you warm and dry.
Lightweight Sleeping Quilt (Rated ~20–30°F)Essential
Coastal nights are cool and damp; a compressible quilt balances warmth and packability.
Tide Tables / Waterproof Tide ChartEssential
Crucial for timing headland crossings and planning safe beach travel.
Common Questions
Do I need a wilderness permit?
Yes—Olympic National Park requires a backcountry/wilderness camping permit for overnight trips; your guide service typically handles permits for organized trips.
Is the route technically difficult?
No technical climbing is required, but beach miles and rocky points demand sure footing and good tide planning—expect variable surfaces and some boulder hiking.
What wildlife might I see?
Common sightings include harbor seals, sea otters, shorebirds, and migrating gray whales offshore; always observe from a distance.
Can I do this trip solo?
Independent travel is possible with permits and experience in tide planning and backcountry camping, but guided trips reduce logistical and safety burdens significantly.
When should I book?
Summer dates fill quickly—book at least several months in advance, especially for July–August departures.
Is cell service available?
Expect little to no cell service along much of the coastline; guides carry satellite communication for emergencies.
What to Pack
Waterproof jacket (keeps you dry), Tide table (safety for headlands), Warm sleeping layer (cold nights), Durable footwear (sand and rock traction)
Did You Know
Cape Alava, reached from the Ozette Coast route, is the westernmost point in the contiguous United States.
Quick Travel Tips
Book early for July–August departures; bring printed tide charts and a headlamp; stash extra socks in waterproof bags; fuel stoves are recommended—open fires are restricted.
Local Flavor
After your return, drive to Forks for steaming seafood chowder, local coffee, and a cold beer at a neighborhood pub; consider a detour to Neah Bay to visit the Makah Cultural and Research Center for local history.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest major airport: Seattle-Tacoma (SEA). Trailhead: Ozette Lake Trailhead (Olympic NP). Driving time from Forks: ~45–60 minutes. Cell service: patchy to none along the coast. Permits: Olympic National Park wilderness/backcountry permit required; guided trips typically arrange this.
Sustainability Note
This stretch of shoreline contains sensitive intertidal habitats—pack out all waste, avoid disturbing tidepool organisms, and use established campsites to limit erosion and vegetation damage.
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